Flagging Forum ← Forum

Hey all, I noticed through browsing around that most people prefer silk or some flowing fabric, and stay away from spandex/lycra type material. My first set of flags was a spandex/lycra type of material. They were black light reactive, and did stretch out when thrown, but I found them to be not only a good work out on the arms (from being a much heavier fabric than the silk flags my friends had) but also the stretching wasn’t much of an issue as it seemed to work with the flags and make them seem set apart from other flags. The question I do have about silk flags is how do you keep from wearing through the delicate silk with your hands/fingers where you grip? Also I was never able to master the overhead pinwheel, but did seem to pick up the other moves with relative ease. Also poi seemed pretty easy to get. I don’t know how to get the overhead pinwheel mastered, have tried and tried but just can’t seem to get it. Any input would be great!

Dorian from Seattle

Hi Dorian,

Silk flags will wear out over time with a lot of use.  Unsurprisingly, the way they are played affects their wear and tear:

- Hitting a lot of things (railings, ceilings, etc, hopefully not people) with the flags will cause wear along the short side.  It can also bang up the leading weight edge, but i’ve seen the short side wear out much faster.

- Playing *really* rough with flags can lead to wear around the hand grip areas.

- Twisting the flags up into ropes will put a lot of stress along the lead edge – it’s the fastest way I’ve seen to shred flags.

That being said, most silk flags will have a good long lifespan unless wailed on.  It’s good to have a lender set in case someone wants to borrow your flags and you don’t know if they play rough.

Back to your original question:

To make silk flags really sturdy, the weigths can be sewing into a strip of cloth before sewing into the silk.  The weights can be sewing into this “weight liner” using the standard zig-zag stitch, and then the liner can be sewing into the edge of the silk with a straight stich.  I’ve found the greatly extends the flag’s lifespan. 

However, it does involve the extra step of sewing the liner, and it does affect the way the flags fly to a degree.

Whenever I sew a set of 5mm (very lightweight silk) flags for a friend, I often add a weight liner made of silk to increase their durability.

Hope this helps,

Phillip

Also I was never able to master the overhead pinwheel, but did seem to pick up the other moves with relative ease. Also poi seemed pretty easy to get. I don’t know how to get the overhead pinwheel mastered, have tried and tried but just can’t seem to get it. Any input would be great!

One suggestion for working on the overhead pinwheel is by starting with the underhand cycle.

Most flaggers pick up the overhand cycle pretty easily – this is where your hands are moving forward in a figure eight motion, in the same direction you would pedal a bicycle.

And underhand cycle goes in the opposite direction. The hands are still making a figure eight, but moving upwards instead of down.  The motion of one hand is similar to a tennis backhand stroke.

Once you get the underhand cycle. you’re on your way to the overhead pinwheel.  Stand up straight and do the underhand cycle off to one side.  You may want to start with just one hand.  So, for example, you face forward, and your right hand does an underhand cycle off to the right side.  Make sure you’re still facing forward with your hips, torso, and head.  Try to get both halves of the cycle even.

You’ll notice that the flag is moving in front of and behind the body.  Slowly move the hand up and over your head.  If you keep the same upward figure eight, the flag will move in front of and behind the head.  That’s the position and motion for an overhead pinwheel!

If you’re doing all this with one hand, then it’s time to add the other one.  Start with the underhand cycle to the side using both hands,  Try to keep the body facing forward.  Then slowly move your hands up overhead again, and you’ll be in the overhead pinwheel position.

Hope this helps.   A video would probably be much clearer — we’ll add that to the to-do list.

-Phillip

Phillip, thanks for the new look! Love me some WordPress I have a question about this comment:

“To make silk flags really sturdy, the weigths can be sewing into a strip of cloth before sewing into the silk.  The weights can be sewing into this “weight liner” using the standard zig-zag stitch, and then the liner can be sewing into the edge of the silk with a straight stich.  I’ve found the greatly extends the flag’s lifespan. “

Could you make some close up photos on how this looks and pictures as you attach it to the flags? I saw your drawings, but it would be helpful to see the process in pictures? I get what you are doing, but I’m concerned in doing it wrong and messing up a set.

Thanks in advance!

- Neon the GlowGoBoy

No prob – the next time I sew the weight liners I’ll be sure to take pictures.

I’m not sure if i was clear before about how the liner goes into the edge:

Sewing weights normally, I roll the weights into the edge of the fabric, so there are several layers of fabric around the cord, and then stitch.

With a liner, I do the same thing except the weights are sewn into a strip of fabric first, then rolled into the edge of the flag.

I am thinking, and correct me if I am wrong phillip, with the weight liner it would be a strip the length of the weights, and wide enough to enclose the weights, then sewn with the zig-zag. As for the wear and tear, I think that I could have been using someone’s lender set and because my flags were much heavier than silk, I was throwing the flags much to hard. Also when I Andy showed me how to make flags, he rolled the weights into the fabirc, and stitched the fabric, but the weights started migrating. how do you enclose the tubing? glue? tie them off? melt them? Thanks!

Sewing normally (no liner):  I roll the cord into the edge of the silk and use a zigzag stitch for the entire distance of the cord.  I usually stitch each of the cords separately so everything is locked in tight and can’t migrate.  

Adding a liner:  I fold the cord into the strip of fabric and zigzag it into place, again down the entire length of the cord.  Then I fold the liner into the edge of the silk and straight stich it in place.

Since the cord is zig-zagged completely, it’s locked into place and cannot migrate.

Phillip, do you cut the cords at the corner or just use a single strip for both sides? I am trying to see in my head how you roll the fabric around the cords yet keep the square shape at the end (or do you even care since it’s swirling around so fast LOL!

Hope you have an awesome weekend and thanks much for all these pointers!

The cords are bent at the corner and are rolled in the fabric edge.  It’s a little difficult to explain – a tutiorial with pictures will show what I mean better.  But the cords are rolled in the fabric edge through the corner as well. 

Some people do cut the cords at the corrner, as it is easier to sew them in.  I’ve also seen where the cords are sewn down one edge, then folded over and sewn down the second. 

~P

I suggest you try making a pair both ways and see what works best for you. I myself cut the cords in the corner. As I prefer the flatness and the aesthetics of the 90degree corner. Though many people I know prefer to fold rather than cut the weights. Just remember there is no wrong way or right way. You will find your own.

Enjoy your journey.

-Patric

Hi! 

I am getting ready to make my first set of flags, and was wondering what everyone thought was the best type/texture of silk to use?

I found a lot more types than I expected when I started browsing, and I am sure its mostly personal preference, but I wondered what the benefits/ detriements to each might be? 

Types I found: Charmeuse, Chiffon, Crepe de Chine, Georgette, Jaquard, Organza, Shantung, Twil

Also, What are the best dyes to use? how do you know which ones will or won’t fluoresce under UV?

Hi Chris,

I usually prefer Habotai Silk, 8 mumme (mm), 45″ wide.   5 mm and 10 mm Habotai are also used frequently.  5mm is great for lightweight larger sized flags, and 10mm makes for heavier, more durable sets.

I’ve also tried Charmeuse, Crepe de Chine, and Organza.

Regards,

Phillip

I got some flags made of iridescent organza: they shimmer really nice in the light and are a bit transparent.

They fly easy cause they have swivels and handles, so you dont have to care about spinning directions, they just follow your movement.

I like that they dont make the sound of silk flags

http://www.fairywings.de